Ontario Outdoor Adventures: Haliburton Highlands & Algonquin Park

2016 has been an interesting year of travel for me. With the birth of my first child, Florence, at the tail end of 2015 we had to make several changes to our typical travel style to accommodate having our new bundle of joy in tow. In early June we had a fantastic week in a beautiful townhouse in Virginia Beach, along with my wife’s extended family. For our 2^nd vacation with my family we chose a peaceful cottage setting deep in central Ontario cottage country, just on the cusp of the famed Algonquin Provincial Park.

I had been to this cottage (40 minutes north-west of Bancroft), as well as Algonquin Park many times in the past, but never for anywhere near as long as the full-week vacation we planned this time around. The extra time allowed me to spread out many activities over the course of the week throughout the beautiful backcountry.

Hiking:

The cottage is located only a 5 min drive from the start of the Algonquin Park ‘High Falls’ hiking trail. The trail snakes through the forest on relatively flat terrain for about 1km before becoming quite steep and rocky over the next 500m or so. It eventually approaches some picturesque river rapids and ends with a great view of High Falls. The falls are photo-worthy for sure, but would never be confused with world famous Niagara Falls. We tried to bring Florence along in her quite rugged stroller (Bob Revolution SE), but once we got to the rocky portion there was no hope and she had to be carried the rest of the way, something I can’t really recommend for obvious reasons. After you get to the falls opening, there are options to rock-hop along the riverbank and also some side trails back into the forest to keep you occupied.

Carrying Florence along the home stretch of the High Falls trail

The rapids at the bottom of the falls

Finally, the majestic High Falls 

Running:

I set off one morning on a run that I had planned out ahead of time via Google Maps. From the cottage road I headed due north about 2km to Kingscote Road. This is a 7km long dirt road that eventually leads into Algonquin Park and an interior canoe access point on Kingscote Lake. The 7k run across this road provided some great views of marshlands and was easily the most “backwoods” I have ever been, but runners beware: this is a logging route and massive logging trucks can rip around the corner at any time. I ran in the oncoming lane to avoid getting clipped from behind, unless there is poor visibility ahead where I moved to the right to avoid not being seen in time. The run was hilly and fairly grueling, but ended with a beautiful view of the pristine lake. In addition, I also ran some of the snowmobiling routes near the High Falls trail entrance, these were much less challenging and generally safer than the Kingscote segment.

Kingscote Lake, an official Algonquin Park interior launch point

Elephant Lake Road

Kayaking:

Our cottage was right on the shores of Benior Lake, so clearly some water sports were in good order. The provided kayak was great for exploring the lake. In addition to the cottage our family was staying at, we had two other family members that own cottages on the same lake, so the kayak became a great method of zipping around to pop in for lunch or just say hi. On our final full day I took up the challenge to paddle to the north end of Benior and exit the lake via a river leading into Algonquin Park and eventually the High Falls rapids. It was about a 5km one-way paddle of what can only be described as one of the most tranquil settings I’ve ever experienced. The gentle winding river traversed untouched wilderness before ending where the rapids began. I settled into a small bay where High Falls hikers approach the rapids and as timing worked out, met up with my parents who were doing the hike at the time. The paddle back to the cottage was a challenge, however. When I re-entered the lake it was much choppier due to increased winds and the afternoon motorboat traffic. My recreational kayak held up quite well in the added chop though, and my tired arms were able to eventually power me back.

Entering the serenity of Algonquin Park

Clutch photo from my dad, hiking the trail at the same time

The end of my watery road

General Cottage Thoughts:

Our cottage, while a tad rustic was perfect for our group. We had as many as 9 people staying in it and it never felt crowded. Being on a septic system for a full week was a new experience, but hey, it’s a cottage not the Four Seasons. As mentioned Benior Lake is great for water sports like kayaking, canoeing, jet skiing, tubing etc. It is large enough to leave a lot to explore and to connect to other bodies, but small enough to easily get to friends and family staying at other parts of the lake. We had a shallow sandy beach which is perfect for small children, but the sand turns to mud and seaweed pretty quickly once you walk in. We did a bit of fishing but without much success. In the autumn my aunt and uncle have caught massive musky, but apparently the summer is a quiet time for the fish. Florence was a bit too young to really partake in activities, but she had a great time hanging out with everyone and checking out the forest and lake scenery for the first time. As a cottage staple we had amazing bonfires each night and thanks to mostly clear skies the stars were just spectacular.

Surreal calmness of Benior Lake in the morning

Just can't beat that dock life 

Bancroft: 

After several days of cooking our own (abundantly carnivorous) meals, we decided to treat ourselves to a dinner out in Bancroft. About 40min from the cottage, Bancroft is the biggest town of substance in the area. It has all of the amenities a town should, a large grocery store, beer and liquor stores and a hardware store. It also has a quaint main drag with lots of little artsy shops. Unfortunately for us, the evening we arrived many of them were already closed for the day. For dinner we chose the Bancroft Eatery & Brew Pub which had some great eats and delicious local Ontario craft beef. After dinner we took a short drive up a steep road to the locally famous Bird's Nest lookout for a fantastic view of the town and surrounding forest.

Florence The Explorer enjoying the view at Bird's Nest Lookout in Bancroft

If you are considering a trip to Algonquin Park, check out my previous post.

Want to know more about the cottage we booked? Check out their website here. 

Mike @ Palms & Pints 

@palmsandpints

Running Review: Lake Ontario Waterfront

Running in my southwest Mississauga neighbourhood (west of Toronto) is something I have done regularly for 3 years now. I had a couple of suburban routes ranging from 6 -10km which I would rotate through depending on the length of run I was looking for. All of these routes had one thing in common… they were boring! A mix of residential, commercial and industrial roads designed to be endured more than enjoyed.  

This year I have been pushing closer to a half-marathon distance, running lengths of 12, 15 and even 18km when I’m feeling up to it. This extra distance has expanded my running radius from the neighbourhood streets to the banks of Lake Ontario.

As boasted in an earlier post, I have run in some pretty cool coastal locations such as Miami Beach, Punta Cana & Malta. While I’m not about to compare residential Lake Ontario to any of these world class destinations, I will say I have been amazed with the beautiful views and serene atmosphere of the waterfront running offered right in my own neck of the woods.

Our neighbourhood of Clarkson sits smack in the middle of two affluent lakeside communities in the Greater Toronto Area... Oakville & Port Credit. Oakville offers runners over half a dozen beautiful waterfront expanses, from the tiny Arkendo Park to the bustling beach at Coronation Park. Perhaps my favorite location in Oakville is the expertly landscaped Gairloch Gardens, complete with its own palm tree in the summer! To the east there is Port Credit with its action packed harbour, plethora of restaurants and cafes and its pier extending out from the mouth of the Credit River into Lake Ontario.

In between these two locations is Rattray Marsh Conservation Area. A protected wetland with walking/hiking/running trails leading through a forested marsh and ending with a fantastic view of the lake.

It turns out you don’t have to travel to Europe or the Caribbean to experience the zen of running with the calming waves and vastness of open water. Here are a few of my favorite photographs of runs alongside underappreciated Lake Ontario!

It's not quite powdery white beach sand, but it sure beats a busy road.

Atlantic Ocean-like waves on a windy day!

The entrance to beautiful Gairloch Gardens in Oakville.

Ahh the majestic palm tree... first time I have seen one in Ontario!

A ship and the Toronto skyline in the distance.

Port Credit - the end of the pier

Mike @ Palms & Pints
@palmsandpints

How I Crush The Dreaded 'Winter Blues'

Well, the final couple days of October are upon us. For those in Canada (and many other places a good distance from the equator), any final hopes of that rogue warm and sunny day have passed us by.

I find the first frost of the season can be a depressing time, especially with the prospect of being stuck indoors for four months. Long gone are those sunny Sunday morning bike rides through the country, the warm evening runs with the sun still high in the sky, and of course basking the in rays by my backyard pool. While there is nothing I can do to enjoy my pool in November, there are many ways I keep both my fun and my cardio rolling from the first colours of fall, through the depths of the winter freeze, right until the flowers bloom next spring! Here are my favorites:

Winter Running / Cycling 

Running in near freezing (or even sub-zero) temperatures basically has two important rules. Layer as needed and avoid the ice. You can’t run in a winter jacket, but you will be surprised how warm an active hoodie over top of a long sleeve running shirt will keep your core. Throw on some running/cycling tights for your legs and cardio-friendly hand and ear protection and you will be surprised both how warm and agile you are on the road/path/trail. Equally as important is to ensure your route is free of ice patches. Cycling is dangerous below zero, but very doable in November with the right gear. Get out and explore your neighbour from the perspective of winter! 

You don't even need to leave your neighbourhood to seek outdoor fun this winter!

Snow Shoeing

The pastime I discovered last winter and one of my favorite outdoor actives. If you can hike a trail in the summer, you can snow-shoe it in the winter. I would argue that the experience is even better than hiking as the touristy crowds that plague many popular parks and trails over the summer months are long gone come the first snowfall. It is also much cheaper than other seasonal sports like snowboarding or skiing for beginners to get into. The winter scenery is beautiful and it is a fantastic workout. Check out a previous blog post all about my love for snow shoeing.

A brisk November right to the Toronto lakeshore

Indoor Workouts

If you are anything like me you understand that working out indoors during a beautiful summer’s day is a waste. Last winter I signed up for both an affordable boot camp and a spin class through my local rec center. The winter can be cold, dark & depressing and there is no better way to keep your fitness and spirits up than good ol’ physical activity. The structured classes make you less likely to bail and your spring self will thank you for the head start on the new season’s goals!

Wintery, winery snowshoeing

Caribbean Vacation

You can’t let winter go by without some serious relaxing. There is nothing comparable to boarding a plane in -15C and getting off it at 30C. Do yourself a favour a book an all-inclusive resort. For as little as $700 per-person you can be lounging seaside with all of the included food and drink you can handle. Punta Cana, Dominican Republic is one of my favorite spots for quality and overall value, but there are plenty to choose from in the DR as well as Cuba, Mexico, Jamaica, Aruba etc. Here are some tips on booking the perfect all-inclusive vacation.

What the DR is all about! 

Mike @ Palms & Pints

@palmsandpints 

Winter Weekend at the Falls

Having spent my entire life in the Greater Toronto Area, I have been to Niagara Falls more times than I can count. When family and Friends from abroad came to visit they were always eager to see either the iconic Toronto focal point, the CN Tower, or the world’s most powerful waterfall located just about an hour down the Queen Elizabeth Way.

In my adult years trips down to Niagara have been fewer and further between. Maybe I took this wonder of the world for granted, or maybe it’s one of those things you can only see so many times. However Niagara Falls is so much more than the falls themselves. The city is home to two world-class casinos, there is a plethora of fantastic restaurants, a brand new outlet mall and even the kitschy tourist trap known as Clifton Hill.

My wife and I decided to spend a night at the falls during a recent winter's weekend as a chance to see the falls in their partially frozen state (something, in my years of visiting the falls during the warm summer months, I had yet to experience).

We started things off by taking a nice stroll across Niagara Parkway, admiring  the postcard-worthy views of both the Horseshoe and American Falls in their glorious part-frozen, snowy state.

The half-frozen American Falls, with the City of Niagara Falls, NY in the background 

The majestic Canadian Horseshoe Falls

From there we headed up Clifton Hill where you will find a colourful, kitschy display of pop culture. A wax museum, a ferris wheel, an arcade and even a giant Frankenstein on top of a Burger King. We didn’t spend much time on Clifton, as it is easily one of the largest collections over-priced establishments you will find anywhere, but the uphill walk was refreshing and provided a few great photo op’s.

The kitschy charm of Clifton Hill

No shortage of activities (bring your wallet)

Ripley's Museum - A Clifton Hill institution

At the top of Clifton Hill we settled in for dinner at Antica Pizzeria, a great pizza place we try to make it to anytime we are in Niagara. Then it was off to try our luck at Fallsview Casino.

First opened in 2004, Fallsview Casino is about as close as you are going to get to a Las Vegas super-Casino in Canada. It is massive, chic and loaded with Vegas-style extras like boutique shopping, several restaurants including the classic all-you-can-eat buffet, a performing stage and much more. On a Saturday night the casino was expectedly packed and many games were hard to come by. I initially tried to get my hands on some digital roulette (prefer that over the standard table roulette which requires some etiquette), however there were no terminals available, and plenty of people circling waiting to grab anything that did open up. We decided to switch our attention to the slots and digital blackjack where we lost a combined $40, an acceptable “cost of entertainment” for non-gamblers such as ourselves.

Fallsview Casino would not be out of place on the Vegas strip.

Using our Player’s Advantage Card (the Casino’s loyalty program) we were able to earn free parking at the casino’s underground parking structure. Since our hotel was only about a 7min walk from the casino, this saved us the $20 the hotel wanted to charge us to park for the weekend. 

Niagara Falls is rightfully one of the top tourist destinations in the world, and it doesn’t have to be expensive either if you do the right research. There are plenty of mid-week hotel deals available through sites like Groupon or WagJag, and sometimes they even include meal, attraction and/or gambling incentives. The falls are beautiful all year round, the dining options plentiful, and you can always find some action at the 24-7 casinos. There is a little something for everyone in Niagara Falls. 

Here is our review of the Radisson Fallsview Hotel. An affordable and conveniently located home base for your Falls trip.

View from partial fallsview room at the Radisson

In my next post I'll get to the 2nd portion of our winter getaway weekend. Touring a winery by snow shoe!

Mike @ Palms & Pints

@palmsandpints

Snow Shoeing - Winter's Cardio

About 5 years ago I discovered the joy of running. At first it was all about fitness as I was terribly out of shape and looking to lose some weight. By the second or third year however it became more about my passion for the sport, the love of the outdoors and the desire to be in the sunshine on anything from a crisp April morning to a sweltering July afternoon.

Proud of my first medal at one of my first running events

While my running evolved over the first four years, one thing stayed the same. I did not run in the winter. Something about the temperatures dipping below 5C just turned me right off the sport and had me indoors until the following spring. This winter, however, I was able to put that behind me and run right into the depths of January and February. This new found love of cold weather activity sparked a new interest which made use of the snowy, slippery terrain; snow shoeing. 

It started by chance. Early in the winter a buddy had bugged me to try cross-country skiing with him. I did... and I hated it. I had trouble staying on my feet and even when I could I must have looked like a drunk flamingo. He saw my struggles and recommended we try something with a lesser learning curve for the rest of the afternoon, so we strapped on some snow shoes and headed for the trail.

First snow shoe adventure near Barrie, Ontario

Fast forward two months and I now own my own pair of snow shoes (Atlas 9-series), and have been out on many adventures both back-trail and urban. My first big run was High Falls trail in the southern tip of Algonquin Park's panhandle. Great views of a mostly frozen river/waterfall and beautiful forest scenery. Algonquin is one of my favourite places to visit, and the snowy winter setting puts a fresh spin on it.

Beautiful frozen scenery

High Falls Trail - Algonquin Park 

Moose sighting after leaving the High Falls trail

Not being able to 'get away' every weekend however has forced me to track down some great urban snow shoeing. I explored the parklands of my own neighbourhood here in Mississauga and while there were no wild life sightings, I had myself a great view of a passing GO Train. I feel as though you don't really know even your own neighbourhood unless it is explored outside of a car. In the summer this can be done on a bike or even on foot, but in the winter time snow shoeing is a fantastic option.

Loving my Atlas snow shoes

Many chilly Sunday mornings have been spent with my father-in-law in Brampton trekking across several city parks. We cruise through thick powdery snow that boots alone wouldn't dream of, passing by small half-frozen duck-filled ponds. These trips even include a bit of urban exploration checking out an abandoned highway overpass which had been decommissioned since the closing of a quarry many years earlier.

Urban exploration - a decommissioned highway overpass

Out exploring, even on the coldest of winter days

While snow shoeing doesn't offer the adrenaline of snowboarding or downhill skiing, it is a great (affordable!) winter sport for those looking to explore nature, see their own local park from a new perspective or even just keep up with that outdoor cardio in the harsh Canadian winter. Just remember to layer up!

Ducks!

Note - For those who like to track progress I highly recommend the Strava app/site. It is great for running, cycling and even has an option to track other types of movement like snow shoeing. 

Mike @ Palms & Pints
@palmsandpints

Algonquin Park

Some of my fondest childhood memories come from time spent camping with my dad in Algonquin Park. While only being a few hours’ drive from the Toronto area, there is just something enchanting about getting away from the urban sprawl to a place where the air is fresh, the water is clear and the outdoor recreation is endless. We would spend each 3 or 4 day getaway hiking the various interpretive hiking trails, cycling the daunting mountain bike routes and of course relaxing around a campfire under the stars at night. Years later I have rediscovered my love for Ontario’s most popular provincial park and try to make it there at least once a year for my dose of Canadian escapism.

Towering Pines 

A beautiful vista, one of the countless in the park

Transportation around the park is easy. The main road (Highway 60) runs right through the park from the West Gate to the East Gate, with visitor centers at each side. Pick up a park map on your way in as all of the trails, campgrounds and other points of interest are mapped based on kilometre marking from the West Gate. This section of the park is known as the ‘corridor’, whereas the less accessible ‘interior’ can only be accessed via portage routes and is recommended for more experienced and adventurous folk.

Whiskey Rapids 

As an avid runner and cyclist I am always looking for a cardio-based outdoor adventure. The hiking trails of Algonquin are unbeatable. Each one explores a different element of the park’s geography, eco-system and history from raging rapids to beaver dams, early 20^th century logging camps to peaceful spruce bogs. The views from these trails probably haven’t changed much in hundreds of years since the early settlers portaged through the land. Be sure to grab a guidebook (50 cents) at the starting point of each trail (or from the park visitor centres during the off-season) to get an excellent description of each section of the trail via numbered posts.

Lush forests and pristine waters

A hiking trail post marker

 Unlike most of Southern Ontario’s well known lakes, many of the lakes within Algonquin Park’s boundaries ban the use of power boats, meaning both the noise and oil pollution is non-existent and the water is calm and crystal clear; a canoer's paradise. Some of the golden sand beaches I would wager could compete with the best in the country.

Blue sky reflecting off of clear waters in a typical Algonquin bog

My most recent trip to Algonquin Park was this past October. Like the last couple of years we stayed at a very well located cottage complex in Dwight, only a 15 minute drive from Algonquin’s West Gate. Full review of this property can be viewed here, but in brief as long are you are not looking for luxury, this is a clean, well equipped and very affordable option in the area. On the way back to the city be sure to stop at 3 Guys and a Stove in nearby Huntsville for the best gourmet buffet breakfast you’ve ever had!

Logging Chain Lodge - our base for all Algonquin adventures

Mike @ Palms & Pints

@palmsandpints

Manitoulin Island in Photos

I spent a sunny August weekend with my wife and in-laws on beautiful Manitoulin Island. As a life-long Ontario resident I was surprised it had taken me nearly 29 years to make it to the world's largest freshwater island. To be honest, a day and a half wasn't nearly enough time to take everything in, but we did our best, exploring on foot and bike as much as possible. Here are some of my favorite photographs from the adventure:

Picturesque beach at Gore Bay - after a 20min bike ride from our cottage.

Gore Bay (the bay, not the town), as seen from dock level.

Getting ready for the next cycling adventure, with Ice Lake in the background

The Meldrum Bay Inn, where we had a fantastic dinner - Full Review Here

The stone pier out into Meldrum Bay. It was cool to see, but likely not worth the hour drive from Gore Bay as there wasn't much else in the area.  

An old sign that lists just about everything you are going to find in quaint Meldrum Bay.

Majestic Bridal Veil Falls. We wished we had more time to swim in the lagoon below like some were doing, but sadly we only got a quick visit on our way off the island. 

One of the many beautiful sailboats docked at Little Current, our entry/exit point of Manitoulin Island. 

Manitoulin Island is a pretty well kept secret compared to other Ontario 'Cottage Country' destinations, so we were a little surpised to see a cruise ship making the rounds.

Enjoying the sunshine and the view. If I want my own boat one day I may have to start a little smaller. 

Some musings about Manitoulin Island:

-There are two ways to get to the island, a 3 hour drive from the Toronto area, followed by a 1.5 hour car ferry, or a 6 hour straight drive. When you factor in having to arrive at the ferry 1 hour before departure you are looking at similar timelines. We choose the road route as it provided a much more flexible schedule. 

-As the island isn't very accessible by car, there are surprisingly few on the road. This makes for fantastic cycling with little towns and places of interest separated just enough for a nice ride. 

-Take a week if you truly want to experience the island. A weekend is far too short. Plan to picnic by beaches and hike the trails. The more you can cover on bike & foot the better as it's hard to really appreciate it's beauty from the non-coastal main road that spans across it. 

Here is my review of Evergreen Resort, the cottage we booked for the trip. 

Thanks!

Mike @ Palms & Pints

@palmsandpints